South Africa

DAY 1

I have for sometime been desperate to go on a safari to Africa. Probably ever since I took up photography some 10 years ago and having watched the many Sir David Attenborough documentaries.

Having retired from my career as a police officer, I finally had the opportunity to do it. Given that my wife didn’t want to join me and a friend and ex colleague had done about 15 or so safaris in his time, who better ask and be my personal guide.

So the date was set. 31st October 2023 and shamawri game reserve in South Africa was chosen.

We flew from Glasgow to Heathrow and Heathrow to Cape Town and picked up the hire car for us to travel the 600 odd miles to shamwari game reserve, where the safari was to begin.

First stop was a 2 hour drive to Hermanus. This place reminded me of Largs in Ayrshire, with its quaint shops, houses and boutiques along with its palm trees and B&Bs. We arrived and immediately headed to the head land. As we all know, nature is not that predictable, in an effort to hopefully catch some whales. I kid you not, we were there for about 3 minutes and immediately saw a mother and her calf have a whale of a time, pun intended. Numerous photos were taken, with the calf turning upside down and riding on its mothers back. The calf actually breached the water, just as I put the camera down (doh) not to worry though as I took some absolute belters of the interaction of mother and child have a play date in the Atlantic Ocean.

***Mother on her back with the calf riding on her belly***

Lunch was had before another 2 hour drive to Aghulus. The most southerly point in the African continent, where the Atlantic and Indian oceans meet. Again this had reminders of Scotland too. A small fishing village with a handful of shops and a pub, where, and get this, you could smoke inside. Very reminiscent of the Isle of Harris and Lewis. The people were just as friendly as well. Making two Scotsmen feel very much at home.

DAY 2

Aghulas to Knysna

Our drive from cape Aghulus to Knysna reminded me once more of Scotland ( but on a massive scale). As we trundled on we were continually followed by mountains, green hills massive wheat fields, the size of Glasgow. These fields went on to the horizon. We then went into mid west America with roads that disappeared into the distance, only for it reappear every few miles we ate up. We decided a coffee break was in order to break the 4hour journey and stopped at a stunning town of Swellendam. We arrived at our accommodation at Kynsna Manor House B&B. Richard and his wife were extremely welcoming and informed us of the Load shedding timings. This is apparently happens quite frequently in South Africa, where the whole region loses its electricity supply for hours. I think it has something to do with them trying up the capacity load of their national grid. Anyway it was my first experience of this which is why I was recommended by my friend to bring a torch. Thankfully we did. It was a bit disconcerting walking back to out B&B in pitch darkness and only hearing voices without being able to see those who owned them. It was that dark. Knysna itself is beautiful much like Caribbean harbour. Whilst at dinner a seal appeared in the harbour with a stingray in its mouth and put on a display whereby it continued to throw the ray about the harbour for about 30 mins before finally eating it. Amazing as much it was cruel at the same time.

Seal playing with its dinner. A stingray

DAY 3

Shamwari

Knysna to Shamwari

This only confirmed that the garden route is very much like Scotland with once more rolling hills and mountains punctuated with pine forests and ribbons of tarmac that disappeared into the landscape guiding you towards your final destination interspersed with the odd colony of baboons scattered by the roadside foraging for food.

Once at shamwari game reserve we were welcomed by our hosts and quickly introduced to our tour guides for our stay. Jason Brad and Geoff. Whilst on route to our tents the guys took us on a mini safari and within 10 minutes we had spotted a giraffe. The guys saw that it was a bit skittish and deduced that there might be lions close by. Sure as, as we turned a bend to be met by the southern pride lying in a bush with a young giraffe which must have only been killed less than 24 hours before. The mother giraffe obviously hanging around in the vain hope that its offspring was still alive. I mean how lucky can you be to have just arrived and within minutes witnessing nature at its finest and harshest all in one moment.

Off we went to be introduced to our camp and staff. I say camp it was more like a scene from a movie with a plunge pool secreted behind rocks like some kind of lagoon. Our tents were of a standard that if a hurricane hit there was more than an even chance that they would survive.

Lunch was served once our other two guests arrived. Olivia and Ben were brilliant safari partners. Well I say lunch more like a banquet. Once that was demolished it was off on a three hour safari. First thing we came across was three rhinoceros who were facing down the southern pride we had met earlier. What a sight to behold. Three lionesses and a male having a stand off with three armoured tanks. Apparently this is an extremely rare occurrence which being a safari virgin I was oblivious to. The pictures taken were epic. Off we went and came across a heard of elephants that had an infant no more than weeks old. Amongst them were also some male juveniles who were extremely vocal and boisterous.

northern Pride Lioness. This a rare sight. Lions tend to stay clear of Rhinos, for obvious reasons

northern pride Lioness trying to hide from the Rhino’s

All of These elephants were extremely protective of the little

If this was day one cannot wait to see what day two of our safari has to offer.

Day 4

Shamwari

During the night we heard the northern pride grunting and walking past our camp. Without exaggeration they were less than 50 meters from us. These guys are comprised of 4 large males and were trying to take over the southern pride’s territory . Having calmed my excitement to a frenzy I eventually fell asleep.

Southern pride male…..The size of those teeth

Southern male having a sniff of us or hopefully something more appealing

Our second day Started extremely early with a 05:30 kick off with a game walk organised with our guides. What these guys don’t know is not worth talking about. We stumbled across a lone bull elephant grazing in the dense undergrowth. Our guides were extremely careful to ensure our safety as I was completely unaware of the dangers of a juvenile bull elephant If it was to have seen us. We were taken up wind of this impressive creature so as to ensure that he was unable to smell us. What I couldn’t get my head around was given the sheer size of these beasts how they can suddenly appear and disappear in the wild without being noticed. We were then shown wolf spiders and their dens amongst or incredible insects that you would never have noticed. We returned to camp for brunch before going for another walking safari to northern part of the reserve where we were taken to a plain with zerbras and impalas etc. it was like a scene from this planet documentary before capturing another lone bull elephant. On returning to our camp we came upon the northern pride once more. I’m constantly amazed at the regal stature of these animals. During our walk Brad saw what looked like a small piece of cream cheese on a tall blade of grass on a path made by animals as they wander the vast reserve of Shamwari. I should have known, because when we first met our guides they were really up for a laugh. So when Brad asked did anyone want to smell it, I stupidly volunteered. As I put my nose close to it Brad pinged it off my nose. And what was this cream cheese type substance, only hyena anal paste. Omg thankfully it was only the grass that hit me and not the paste. It is used a a communication tool to let other hyena know of their whereabouts, who they are and a whole host of other tell-tales. It never ceases to amaze me how much nature has a lot to teach us. Anyway as you can imagine I had the Micky ripped out of me for the entire safari of my anal pasting

Its only on the explorer camp that you get this walking experience.
Brad showing us some tracks

It never ceased to amaze me how these huge animals can disappear into the bush like a ghost

Day 5

Shamwari

Our last day at Shamwari consisted of a game drive in an effort to find the elusive cheetah to no avail. However like superheroes Jason Brad and Geoff (josh) found us a black rhino. these guys horns are massive in comparison to the white rhinoceros despite the whites being larger.

During our whole safari expeditions. The walks were the most interesting. To be allowed into these wild animals back gardens makes you Feel vulnerable in a good way, I makes you check yourself. We think we are apex predators however in a one on one with any of these big cat’s, elephants, water buffalo or whatever we are ill equip to match these magnificent creatures. you quickly realise how insignificant humans really are with these animals and humbles you and they allow into their world.

A centipede on one of our walking safari

See how they keep the young in the middle or near a large adult

Shamwari you have been everything I expected and much much more. To Jason Brad and Geoff (aka josh). Thank you guys thank you so much.

DAY 6

Addo Elephant Park

Today started early in Addo elephant park. The park itself is around the size of the isle of mull. Off we went to explore our new surroundings. As we entered to southern end of the park we were met by a heard of Elephants.

It never ceases to amaze me how these animals can quickly appear from nowhere in the bush. As we rounded the corner all we heard was a massive trumpet from our right hand side. I nearly jumped out of my skin and there about 10 feet from us was an elephant in the undergrowth. As quickly as it appeared it disappeared again.

The rest of the heard were just bumbling along in the middle of the road, without a care in the world and took no notice of us whilst we drew alongside to capture some amazing photos. We moved on and a few kilometres later another heard were there in the bush. This one had a young one with it. The mother who towered above us stood in front of it calf, whilst the father, who was another head and shoulders above her stood at the back. They moved off to join the rest of the heard and as the mother past our car, she looked into my soul and rumbled as she past right by me. To say I was about soil the passenger seat of our hire car, would not be an understatement. What a special moment as we past each other. Just her and I in moment in time that will never forget. I was quite emotional if I’m brutally honest.

We then headed to one of the watering holes and were greeted to a spectacular performance of elephants play fighting and engaging with each other. What an epic sight to behold.

Now as I write this there is a monkey clattering about on the roof of our tent.

DAY 7

Addo to Knysna

Our last chance to safari before we head south and nearer to our return home.

Addo is as I have said previously, massive, we headed into the park early, so as to give us about 4hours safari as we had a 4 hour drive from Addo to Knysna.

Off we went into the park. What never ceases it amaze me is how large animals just suddenly appear or disappear from one corner to the next. One such example today was when we rounded a bend and boom there is a massive water buffalo bull lying there having a mud bath in the afternoon sun.

You see these beasts on the television, but you don’t really get a sense of their size until you are 10ft from one. Let me Tell you these things are huge, and I remembered what the guys at Shamwari had told us, that they can be massively aggressive if provoked. So we decided that we would just give him a bit of distance, well I say him what I really mean, was give us time to engage 1st gear and take off like Colin McRae at the start of a rally stage.

This park is not just full of elephants but Zebra, Mongoose, Lions Leopards and Rhinos amongst others.

Thankfully the big guy was quite chilled so with our photos taken off we went further into the park in the search for lions, without any luck. However and this what I now love about a safari, as we searched we stumbled upon a few elephants at a “pan” a watering hole to you and I, where there was some lovely interaction with ones that were already there and some late arrivals, especially a cow and her calf with a rather large bull. You have or more accurately, you want to find one thing, when bam, a complete different animal just appears. With the old adage “time waits for no man” and with a heavy heart we had to leave for our 4 hour drive to our next destination of Knysna.

As we left Addo we traveled via a massive township before turning onto the N2 “motorway”. I mean we had driven past a few en route to our safaris, from a distance, however this one we had to drive through a main road with the township either side of us. You get a real sense of the stark contrast of our shamwari game reserve stay and being treated like kings to the living conditions of those living in these townships.

We then joined the N2 and off we went towards Knysna. Once again I was struck by how similar this part of the country is reminiscent of Scotland. The drive was uneventful with roads that are pin straight to the horizon and last for 30-50 miles before you need to turn the steering wheel left or right at and degree. We arrived at Kynsna Manor House B&B, where we had stayed en route to Shamwari 5 days earlier. I would highly recommend staying here if you are ever in South Africa or knysna. Dinner and few drinks were had and off to bed we went as we have another 4 hourish drive to Cape Town, hopefully via Hermanus tomorrow

DAY 8

Kynsna to Cape Town

Once again the drive was through stunning countryside with a mix of mountains and rolling farm land of wheat interspersed with pine trees and never ending roads into the vanishing point, with another stop in Swellendam for a well earned coffee and a light lunch. Once in Cape Town we headed straight to table mountain. Well if you are here then you have to do it don’t you.

At the top of the 3558ft mountain the views, as you would imagine are quite spectacular. With Cape Town sprawled before you on one side and the Atlantic Ocean on the other.

I hate to repeat myself but it once more reminded me of Scotland with its rugged crags and steep terrain all around. The coastline however was very different and brought back memories of the Caribbean islands. The views were breath-taking coupled with the clear blue skies and the warm sunshine, which made it feel quite special.

We booked into the Chapmans peak hotel which is a stones throw from Houts bay. We were treated to the most stunning sunset with the waves gently rolling in on white sandy beaches bookended by two exquisite mountains on either side of the bay, leading you out to the south Atlantic Ocean with the next stop Antarctica. A special place indeed. Next stop before we head home is the cape of good hope then back to the cold reality of life.

DAY 9

Capetown to Home

Like everyday on this adventure, the day started early in an effort to squeeze as much as possible into our last few hours in this wonderful country. After a hearty breakfast we headed up the infamous chapmans peak road. For the uninitiated this road has been used in several car adverts, probably the most famous on being when Mercedes Benz crashes one of their cars off one of the many cliffs along this route, with the occupants surviving. BMW then tongue firmly in cheek took one of their 7 series on a spirited drive along the same piece of ribboned tarmac, with the tag line BMW make the bends.

Anyway this twisty road section is closed probably as much as the Rest and be Thankful in Scotland due to rock falls. However today was not such an occasion. The road hugs the coastline twisting one way then the next with hypnotic frequency, interspersed with stunning white sandy beaches and beautiful bays. There are sheer drops into the Atlantic Ocean at every turn.

We then dropped down and headed to table mountain park. This is a protected area which affords you access to cape point at the cape of good hope. This park takes you secluded coves and beaches, with one being better than the next, whilst guiding to cape point.

Once we arrived there were about 50-60 seals sitting on a rock about a half mile from the coast. with the waves crashing against the rocks, this gave quite a dramatic frame for some really cool photographs. We also caught some surfers at one of those little coves I mentioned earlier. Another cool shot.

Sadly this all had to come to an end and it was time to head to the airport.

I can honestly say that this had been the greatest experience I have ever had. With the exception of my wedding and the birth of my two sons. Experience is maybe not the correct word, I feel adventure best describe it.

If anyone reading this has any inclination of doing something similar. DO IT!!!!!!!

South Africa Adventure

South Africa

DAY 1

DAY 2

Aghulas to Knysna

DAY 3

Shamwari

Day 4

Shamwari

Day 5

Shamwari

DAY 6

Addo Elephant Park

DAY 7

Addo to Knysna

DAY 8

Kynsna to Cape Town

DAY 9

Capetown to Home